Four Days In: Paris
We set off on the road* in July 2021 to explore Paris. A city that is polarizing in opinion to many, I can now set up camp because, Paris is a dream.
Stay: Novotel Eifel - views of the Seine, breakfast, elevator, AC and a pool.
Thursday, 7/15
We brought along the workhorse (aka UppaBaby Vista with both seats and the kick-board) allowing us to explore the city on foot, our preferred (and free!) method of transportation.
Parc du Champ de Mars - an idyllic spot to post up (bonus points if you bring along a picnic!) under the Eifel Tower. Our oldest eagle eye spotted a playground tucked under shade trees nestled against the tower were the boys got to shake out all their road-trip wiggles, I snapped photographs, and Mark relaxed with a beer from the kiosk literal steps from the playground.
Dinner: Cafe Constant - we arrived when dinner service began (without reservation) and had a 10-15 minute wait before being seated al fresco. Everything we ordered was a delight despite one (both?) of our children’s refusal to consume anything, opting for a granola bar instead because we are firmly planted in a picky eater season and they will.not.be.moved. Tell me it gets better.
Friday, 7/16
Picked up breakfast from Carettte (thanks for the rec, S!)on my run, detouring up countless steps due to construction but persevering with a host of baked goods nonetheless.
Set off on foot to the Tuileries Gardens, stopping for a playground pit stop along the way. There was a carnival on the garden grounds where upon my children had the time of their lives playing games and winning plastic swords that have long met their maker but imprinted on them nevertheless. And I have to admit, visions of their sword fights on the garden ground is a memory I cherish as well. From there we headed across the street to Cafe Kitsune for coffee and a snack (get the yuzu cake, it is a delight). Passed by Blvd Hausmann, snuck a peek inside Marche des Enfants Rouges (MUST go back) and took in Place de la Concorde.
Lunch: Loup - steps from our next stop and home to a menu that pleased the entire family we settled into lunch al fresco with color books and Aperol Spritzes.
Next, we visited the Pinnault Collection - contemporary art collection with pieces from Urs Fischer, David Hammonds, and Pierre Huyghe - to name my favorites. Upon entering, we got the kids settled for a nap, O in the stroller and A in the carrier. They also had carriers to loan as the main exhibit was life sized burning candles (oversimplifying, the exhibit was exquisite).
Tip: schedule something the parents enjoy post lunch while the kids nap/full bellies.
Dinner: Beaugrenelle - steps from our hotel and home to the best pain au caramel I’ve ever tasted and all but refused to share with my family.
Saturday, 7/17
Breakfast: pastries from Amanda and Pauline
Took a cab to explore Montmartre. Visited Sauer Couer (tip: there is a back entrance for strollers), lighting a candle as we do in each church we visit to entice the kids to behave with the promise of pyrotechnics, and also make a small contribution to the church.
Lunch: alfresco at La Villa des Abbesses - mussels and frites with a crisp Rose’, for ever. We popped by the Berthillion cart perched across the street (in front of la Mascotte, must return to shop there) for ice cream.
Strolled Rue Cler, Trocadero (with a playground pit stop at the bottom), got a peek at Arc De Triomphe from a distance, Champs Elysee, found another playground at Parc du Champs before heading to dinner.
Dinner: Mokus - pizza fit for the hungriest bunch and home to our oldest son’s “favorite bathroom”. Tour de France had a leg thru the city and in a word - it was chaos getting back to our hotel.
Sunday, 7/18
Brunch: Cafe Saint Regis amdist the backdrop of Notre Dame. Ooozing with charm, incredibly delicious meal.
Walked past Notre Dame (it is under construction from the fire), stopping at this quiet gated playground: nearby on Rue Parcheminerie. Took in St. Chapelle. Next we went to Luxembourg Gardens by way of snack and coffee from Treize au jardin. Rented toy boats on the lake for the boys where we could have stayed for hours, it was so tranquil.
Lunch: alfresco at Brasserie Vagenende
Stopped for a blazing hot playground stop at Jardin Catherine Laboure - a meticulously kept play space the kids loved. Minus the scorching sun.
Dinner: Indiana Cafe - close to the hotel, nothing to write home about. Made more palatable by the La Duree treats waiting for us in our hotel room.
*we price out our route for each road trip - gas/tolls/mileage on viamichelin.com
